Think perpetual calendar chronograph watches and you are probably also thinking about Patek Philippe. No other complication is more synonymous with the brand than the perpetual calendar chronograph. The latest perpetual calendar chronograph watch, the Reference 5270, was introduced by Patek Philippe in 2011. Since its launch, we have seen a number of different variations. However, the latest one might just be the most desirable yet. Why? Because it comes with a salmon dial. This is the new Patek Philippe Reference 5270P Perpetual Calendar.
All images by Ariel Adams
The new Reference 5270P is largely similar to the versions that came before it. One notable feature is that it comes in a platinum case. Platinum is a highly desirable metal when it comes to complicated Pateks. Stainless steel and titanium ones still rule the roost, but those are super rare and hard to come by. At any rate, the case is unchanged and comes in at 41mm wide and roughly 12.4mm thick. It wears quite large on the wrist, and the sizable crown, square pushers, and the fancy flared lugs only accentuate its size and make it seem even larger. In between the lugs at 6 o’clock is a small diamond that is a discreet feature found on all platinum Pateks.
The overall configuration of the dial is unchanged. At 12 o’clock you have the two apertures for the day and month, and you have the running seconds at 9 o’clock, 30-minute chronograph register at 3 o’clock, and the date and moon phase at 6 o’clock. At 7:30 you have a small aperture for the day and night indicator, and at 4:30 you have the leap year indicator. One tiny gripe that I have is that the apertures for the day and date and the leap year indicator are not color-matched with the dial.
Speaking of the dial, the big news here is the salmon color of the dial and, my god, what an effect it has. Salmon dials have long been associated with rare and special Pateks and so it is interesting that Patek Philippe decided to release a 5270 with a salmon dial. Enthusiasts will know that despite boasting a superior manufacture movement, the 5270 hasn’t fared so well and has thus far remained in the shadow of its predecessor, the 5970, which has a Lemania-based movement. It is hard to say exactly why, but it is clear that Patek Philippe is hoping to boost interest and therefore sales of the 5270 with this new model.
Apart from the color of the dial, what’s also unique is that in place of stick hour markers, this new 5270P has Arabic numerals made out of black gold. The various hands are also made out of black gold. Patek Philippe has also expertly paired the watch with a brown alligator strap with square scales, which matches the watch perfectly.
These two highlights have had a profound effect on the dial. On the one hand, the salmon color gives it a palpable sense of warmth and a vintage feel, but the black gold Arabic numbers to me, look decidedly modern, and this gives the 5270P a more contemporary touch. Together, the two combine to give the watch a unique aesthetic, making it, in my opinion, the most attractive and desirable Reference 5270P yet.
Obviously, the 5270P features a sapphire display caseback and its lucky owners will be able to admire the CH 29-535 PS Q in all its glory. It is a hand-wound movement, and when fully wound it will provide a power reserve of 55 to 65 hours. The architecture of the movement, if I’m honest, isn’t the prettiest, but the movement is very well finished. There are hand beveled bridges along with intricate graining on the wheels, polished screw heads, and more. The movement is also tightly regulated to standards that exceed COSC.
It will be interesting to see how Patek enthusiasts respond to this new 5270P, especially when you consider that all previous versions of the 5270 on leather straps have been discontinued to make way for this new model. The 5970 will always remain a special watch, but I think this new model, with its salmon dial, has a great chance of winning some enthusiasts over. Even though this new 5270P is not perfect, I still like it a lot and would like to see it succeed commercially. The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270P is priced at 165,000 CHF. patek.com